'Grower' Champagnes offer some of the highest quality and best value drinking in the region, but are still something of a well kept secret in the UK.

Made from grapes grown by the producers themselves (not bulk bought like the big brand equivalents), these are hand-crafted, single estate wines that would sell for a lot more if they could match the marketing power of the big Champagne houses.

The Fresne Ducret 'Les Nouveaux Explorateurs' Premier Cru NV is an outstandingly good example, with that perfect balance of ripe fruit, rich, brioche-like yeastiness and crisp (but not too crisp!) acidity.

The Fresne family have been growing grapes in Champagne for 7 generations. Their vines are in the 1er Cru village of Villedommange, near Reims, and today it is Pierre Fresne who oversees the whole operation - from vineyard management through to the dosage, riddling and final corking.

The resulting Champagnes are a testament to the family's meticulous production methods and the quality of the domaine's Premier Cru terroir.

Offered: November 2024.

Alcohol: 12%.

Drinking window: 2024 – 2032.

Food matching: Excellent as an aperitif but even better with smoked salmon or potted shrimp.

The Wine.

Superb old vine Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend, impressively aromatic and brimming with ripe red fruit. Bright, fresh, full-ish bodied, it is drinking beautifully now but will age well for a good 6 - 8 years if you want to lay it down.

The Estate.

Château de Nages has been in the same family for four generations and under current owner and winemaker, Michel Gassier ("a relentless and talented farmer" - Jeb Dunnuck), it has become the leading estate in the Costières de Nîmes. They farm organically and as sustainably as possible, keeping the use of copper fungicides to a minimum (although they are allowed in organic farming) and grazing sheep on the land between October and March to fertilise the soil, keep weeds under control and avoid compaction of the soil caused by tractors.

The Appellation.

Costières de Nîmes is a small region in southern France where the Rhône meets the Mediterranean. It boasts enviable growing conditions, with plenty of sun, a plateau of well drained pebbly ground and the Mistral breeze acting as a natural fungicide by keeping the air moving among the vines.

Offered: October 2024.

Alcohol: 15%.

Drinking window: 2024 – 2032.

Food matching: Roasts, stews and hard cheeses.

The Wine.

A lightly oaked blend of classic southern Rhone white grapes (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and Viognier), this is a beautifully balanced, old-vine white with freshness and fruit (peach, pear), a subtle richness from the oak barrels and long, slightly saline finish.

The Estate.

Château de Nages has been in the same family for four generations and under current owner and winemaker, Michel Gassier ("a relentless and talented farmer" - Jeb Dunnuck), it has become the leading estate in the Costières de Nîmes. They farm organically and as sustainably as possible, keeping the use of copper fungicides to a minimum (although they are allowed in organic farming) and grazing sheep on the land between October and March to fertilise the soil, keep weeds under control and avoid compaction of the soil caused by tractors.

The Appellation.

Costières de Nîmes is a small region in southern France where the Rhône meets the Mediterranean. It boasts enviable growing conditions, with plenty of sun, a plateau of well drained pebbly ground and the Mistral breeze acting as a natural fungicide by keeping the air moving among the vines.

Offered: October 2024.

Alcohol: 13.5%.

Drinking window: 2024 – 2027.

Food matching: A good match for grilled chicken, creamy seafood dishes or fresh goat's cheeses.

The Wine.

100% Pinot Noir, unoaked and bursting with vibrant raspberry and cherry fruit. Silky smooth, easy drinking at 12.5% abv but with a tension and freshness that makes it incredibly more-ish.

The Domaine.

Established in 1950 by Jean Lemoule, Domaine Lemoule is now run by his grandson Steve along with his father and two siblings. The family own some of the best 'lieu-dits' in the appellation and manage the estate along sustainable lines. Since Steve took over 20 years ago, he has perfected a style of vinification that aims to bring roundness and fruit to the wines, without losing their crucial freshness - not always easy in these cool northern climes.

The Appellation.

Coulanges la Vineuse is one of the most northerly villages in Burgundy, located just to the west of Chablis. Vines have been cultivated here since the 2nd century, and, pre-phylloxera, covered some 1000 hectares with no less than 247 vintners and 17 coopers. Today just 150 hectares remain planted, with ten growers in operation. The terroir though is outstanding and as such this relatively unknown appellation produces some exceptionally good value reds.

Offered: May 2024.

Alcohol: 12.5%.

Drinking window: 2024 – 2029.

Food matching: Delicious with roast turkey, roast duck, or mid-strength hard cheeses such as Brebis Napoléon.

The hills of the Coteaux Varois produce some superb rosés. The extra height is the key. The cooler nights in the vineyard help the grapes to maintain their acidity, whilst also slowing their maturation. This means more ‘hang time’ on the vine (about two weeks compared to the lowland vineyards) and results in more characterful grapes.

Château Margillière is one of the most exciting estates in the appellation. They have been working organically since 1999 and their vineyards cover 25 hectares. The results are superb thanks to a combination of traditional vineyard techniques, top-spec winery equipment and painstaking attention to detail throughout the production process. 

Offered: May 2024.

Alcohol: 12.5% abv.

Vintage report: A hot, dry year resulted in concentrated, flavoursome grapes. Harvest was early in most cases in order retain the grapes' acidity and to stop alcohol levels getting too high. Quality was good to very good.

Tasting Notes: Beautifully balanced, crisp and elegant with soft, ripe red fruits, floral notes and a silky smooth finish.

Drinking window: At its best 2024 - 2026.

Food matching: Excellent as an aperitif but would also be a good match for grilled asparagus, Salade Nicoise, seafood risotto and cured meats (among others).

The Wine.

An unoaked blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, made from the family vines around the village of Suzette. Clean and cool with blackberry aromatics, a silky smooth texture and a long finish. The wine is completely delicious now but will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.

The Estate.

Château Redortier was established in 1956 by Etienne and Chantal de Menthon, grandparents of Isabelle and Sabine who run the estate today. It sits in the shadow of the Dentelles de Montmirail with Mont Ventoux not far to the east. The vines are up to 60 years old and benefit from the altitude of the estate vineyards. The grapes are hand harvested and the juice is fermented using wild yeasts.

The Appellation.

Beaumes de Venise is an up-and-coming appellation in the southeast Rhône. It offers much of the quality of the more established appellations of the area (Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape et al), but at more manageable prices. Château Redortier is one of the region's leading small producers.

Offered: April 2024.

Alcohol: 14.5%.

Drinking window: 2024 – 2029.

Food matching: An excellent match for hard sheep's cheeses, roast chicken and barbecued steaks.

The Wine.

An outstanding, mature example of the much coveted Priorat style. Rich and fruity with plenty of freshness alongside notes of spice, eucalyptus, cedar and tobacco. 18 months in French oak and 6 or so years in bottle have turned this into a serious, complex and beautifully balanced red.

The Estate.

Sola Classic is one of just 60 or so bodegas operating in this tiny region and has been owned by the Barcelo family since 1777. The vineyards have been organic since 2009 and all harvesting is done by hand. The vines are 45 - 75 years old which means small production but great quality of fruit.

The Appellation.

Priorat is a tiny appellation in Catalonia, north east Spain. Here old vines cling to steeply terraced vineyards under the hot mediterranean sun, and gnarled vines produce small quantities of intense red wines from the Garnacha and Cariñena grape varieties.

The region has produced wines since Roman times, but experienced an extraordinary renaissance in the 1990s. A number of wine makers, recognising the area's potential, bought up small plots of land and began applying modern winemaking techniques to production. It is now turns out some of the most sought after wines in Spain.

Offered: February 2024.

Alcohol: 14.5%.

Drinking window: 2023 – 2027.

Food matching: A rich, full bodied wine that would match well with mature hard, ewe’s milk cheeses, slow roast meats – venison, lamb, pork belly – or sausage cassoulet.

The Wine.

A beautifully balanced, unoaked white Beaujolais that drinks like a high class Burgundy. Fresh and floral with tangerine fruit, gentle acidity and a clean, lingering finish. Very impressive stuff. Drinking perfectly now but can cellar for a couple more years.

The Estate.

Domaine Longère covers five hectares of prime terroir in the villages of Le Perréon and Vaux en Beaujolais. Jean-Luc Longère, sixth generation winemaker, has been in charge of the estate since 1988. Under his stewardship they became one of the first producers in the region to receive the Terra Vitis certification for sustainable practices.

The Appellation.

The Beaujolais appellation is just to the south of Burgundy in eastern-central France. Roughly 98% of production is red, but the 2% of white is well worth seeking out. Made from 100% Chardonnay they tend to have a distinctive floral, gentleness to them that sets them apart from the Chardonnays made to the north.

Offered: March 2024.

Alcohol: 14.5%.

Drinking window: 2023 - 2025.

Food matching: A great match for goat's cheese, scallops or a chestnut tart.